Enchanting Autumn: Unveiling Hidden Fragrance Treasures
By Andrej Babicky, Certified Master Natural Perfumer
As autumn's brush strokes the world in vibrant shades of red and gold, I find myself in the warm embrace of Piedmont, Italy. Here, amidst nature's grand spectacle, my garden transcends being merely a canvas for predictable perfumery choices. It becomes a treasure trove of concealed aromatic delights. Autumn beckons with a unique charm, a season when nature dons its most exquisite attire. My explorations lead me on journeys through the woodlands and along riverbanks. It's a time when I crush leaves between my fingers, uncovering aromas I never expect. In this serendipity, the magic of fragrance discovery comes alive.
Beyond my garden's confines, I venture on long walks through landscapes veiled in the characteristic autumn fog of our region. These moments of calm and solitude allow me to reflect on the passage of seasons. They also kindle my desire to hunt for seasonal treasures - fruits, berries, mushrooms, and plants awaiting transformation into unique tinctures.
Autumn's Palette of Aromas
Autumn, with its earthy scents and rich colors, is an opportune time to diversify our collection of essences. Imagine the musty aroma of mushrooms, the scent of undergrowth, and fallen leaves. These olfactory nuances beautifully complement the fragrance profiles of woods and barks. Mushrooms like porcini, field mushrooms, and honey mushrooms each contribute their unique aromatic notes. Mushrooms, including the esteemed truffle and the woody Ganoderma species, encapsulate the essence of the forest floor. Dried and artfully tinctured, they release an aroma reminiscent of damp earth, undergrowth, and rain-kissed leaves. These tinctures harmoniously intertwine with the scents of barks, leaves, and mosses, creating a symphony of woodland fragrances.
Our journey then leads us from the forest floor to the lush green canopies, where oakmoss, tree moss, and lichens flourish. Once dried and transformed into tinctures, these natural wonders unveil a unique olfactory profile, marked by a dry, woody, earthy, and somewhat salty aroma. It's the scent of the forest after a gentle rain, an essence that imparts mysterious depth and a sense of the great outdoors to your fragrances.
In this season, even the changing leaves present intriguing raw materials. Have you ever rubbed nearly dry walnut, apple, magnolia or cherry leaves between your hands, inhaling their delicate scents? While walnut leaves may challenge inclusion in final compositions due to their staining ability, cherry leaves offer a delicately fruity hay aroma. One of my favorites is the oak leaf, which I extract both in spring and autumn. Young leaves exude a bitter, warm, and intensely green scent, while the evergreen magnolia leaves evoke the sensation of sun-warmed wood, with a denser, more mysterious aroma rich in earthy nuances with just a touch of floral notes.
Sometimes, inspiration strikes unexpectedly. During a bonsai workshop, the scent of maple roots unearthed memories of freshly dug-up carrots, leading to the creation of a surprisingly intriguing tincture.
Expanding Horizons with Autumn Fruits
Quince, while cherished for its aroma rather than its taste, exudes a captivating fragrance reminiscent of my grandmother's closet. Sliced thin and dried, quince becomes an extraordinary tincture, offering a unique and pleasantly juicy concoction with green, herbaceous, and vaguely floral undertones.
The enchantment of autumn extends to other fruits like apples, pears, persimmons, and citrus. These often-overlooked gems can be sliced, dried, and transformed into aromatic tinctures. Apples provide a fragrance reminiscent of an orchard in full bloom, pears exude delicate notes of orchard blossoms and honeyed richness, while persimmons offer a slightly spicy aroma that captures the essence of late autumn.
For citrus fruits, the aromatic potential lies within the rind. Traditionally extracted by pressing the rind or distillation they can be also tinctured. Dried citrus peels hold the zesty, bright, and invigorating essence of lemons, oranges, and various citrus varieties. These citrus tinctures bring a burst of freshness to fragrance compositions, infusing them with the vivacity of citrus groves.
Unveiling Nature's Secrets: The Discovery Continues
As autumn gracefully unfolds, a fragrant tapestry unfurls. From the earthy aroma of mushrooms to the sweet notes of berries and the herbal essence of leaves, each scent tells a unique story. This season encourages experimentation and exploration, revealing the boundless potential of fragrances offered by nature. Join me on this journey into the heart of autumn, where every scent is a hidden treasure waiting to be found.
If you're intrigued by the art of fragrance extraction and want to delve deeper into the secrets of this captivating process, consider enrolling in my Natural Raw Materials Extraction Masterclass. In this comprehensive course, you'll uncover the techniques, methods, and nuances of extracting fragrances from the most unexpected sources. Whether you're a seasoned perfumer or a novice exploring the world of scents, this masterclass is your gateway to a deeper understanding of nature's aromatic treasures.
Join me on this exciting journey, where every aroma is a revelation, and every tincture tells a story. Don't miss the opportunity to discover more and take your passion for fragrances to the next level. Enroll in the Natural Raw Materials Extraction Masterclass today and unlock the secrets of this extraordinary art.
by Françoise Rapp, Master Perfumer and Lead Instructor
As September rolls around, it marks the beginning of a new school year and presents the perfect opportunity to embark on exciting learning journeys. Whether you are an aspiring perfumer or experienced, we are proud to introduce the largest International natural perfumery educational platform designed to teach all aspects of this captivating art. Our comprehensive curriculum offers a range of courses, masterclasses, and advanced programs that enable you to acquire new techniques and deepen your knowledge, ultimately empowering you to design your own successful brand.
Perfumotherapy: Immersing Yourself in the World of Natural Perfumery
One of our flagship courses is Perfumotherapy, an immersive experience that unveils the world and art of natural perfumery. This course provides a solid foundation in perfume creation and technique, emphasizing the crucial role of olfaction and natural essences. Comprising of Olfaction Training, French Natural Aromatherapy, and French Natural Perfumery courses, the Perfumotherapy diploma is a comprehensive program that legitimizes your work as a natural perfumer. Understanding the basics of olfaction and the true essence of natural ingredients is vital for conceiving, comprehending, conveying, and authenticating beautiful natural creations.
Master Natural Perfumer: Elevating Your Expertise
For certified perfumers seeking to enhance their skills and knowledge, we offer the Master Natural Perfumer course. This program includes the Perfumotherapy course as a foundation and allows you to choose four additional masterclasses or courses that align with your specific interests. Whether you wish to delve into marketing and brand design, perfect your formula-building skills, explore the role of essences on the psyche and emotions through the aromachology course, or trace the historical perfume routes with our captivating masterclasses, the choice is yours.
Supporting Your Art and Passion
We aim to support each natural perfumer in developing their art and passion. We believe that you are the driving force behind the world of natural perfumery today and tomorrow. That is why all Natural Perfumery Teachers Academy instructors are recognized experts in their respective fields, ensuring that you receive the highest quality education. Moreover, our courses are available in multiple languages ensuring accessibility to a wide range of learners and easing your learning experience. Additionally, we offer a convenient installment payment method to accommodate various budgets and make the courses more accessible.
As you embark on this new school year, we hope September becomes filled with joyous learning and the opportunity to unleash your artistic potential.
Let the wonders of natural perfumery inspire and guide you on your journey.
By Andrej Babicky, Natural Perfumer Expert
The world of Natural perfumery is a fascinating one, with a rich history and an abundance of different scents and notes to explore.
One of the most iconic and well-known olfactory families is the Chypre family, named after the French word for the island of Cyprus. This island has a long history of association with perfumery, and it was once at the center of the perfume trade in the Orient, with its gloves scented with oak moss and the famous Oiselets de Chypre (Chypre Birds).
The forests of the Copper island (currently Cyprus) and its oak mosses, its Henna (Kypros), rose and iris oils, ointment boilers contributed to the fame of its perfumers. Their names were to the Master Perfumers: the ‘Kupirijo’ or ‘Cypriots’.
Historically, perfumes were considered a luxury item for the elite and their distribution was limited. However, this all changed in 1917 with the launch of François Coty's Chypre. Coty's Chypre had a significant impact on the perfumery industry and succeeded in remarkable publicity, giving a name to the whole olfactory family.
The Chypre accord, which is the core of a Chypre perfume, is based around bergamot, labdanum, floral notes, and oakmoss.
These different components work together to build the architecture of a perfume and define its main theme. The accord is then enriched by other notes, which are the facets of the perfume.
These fragrances are known for their intense base notes that can bring to mind scents of undergrowth and woods.
One of the most interesting things about the Chypre family is its adaptability to various interpretations. This allows natural perfumers to create unusual fragrances that are truly one-of-a-kind. The mysterious and charismatic character of natural Chypre fragrances makes them captivating and alluring, and it is this quality that has made them so popular over the years.
In addition to its adaptability, the Chypre family is known for its ability to evoke emotions and memories. The scents are able to transport us back in time and bring up memories that we had forgotten about. This is why Chypre fragrances are considered timeless and classic, and continue to be popular to this day.
The rich history of perfumery on the island of Cyprus and the impact of François Coty's Chypre perfume continue to influence the perfumery industry to this day.
The chypre family is a fascinating and iconic olfactory family that has a rich history and a wide range of scents and notes to explore. From the mysterious and captivating classic chypre fragrances to the more androgynous green chypres, or joyful fruity facets, there is something for everyone.
In our masterclasses, we will delve into the world of natural perfumery and the creative process that attendees will experience.
We will discover the different olfactory families and facets, their history, and some curiosities. We will also discuss the most representative fragrances and dedicate ourselves to the creation of fragrances and accords focused on a single olfactory family. These masterclasses are designed for individuals who have already followed the path of natural perfumery and for those who wish to deepen their knowledge in this field.
Starting from February with the Chypre masterclass, new masterclasses will be made available every month, providing an in-depth look at the practical aspect of creation and revealing the mysteries of natural perfumery. We will be inspired and amazed by the power of natural perfumery and the creative potential it holds.
I encourage you to join us in these masterclasses and experience the art and science of natural perfumery for yourself.
The masterclasses will provide a unique opportunity to learn, to explore your own creativity and sense of smell. The Chypre family of fragrances is just one of many olfactory families that we will be exploring in these classes, so even if Chypre is not your favorite family, you will have the opportunity to discover new fragrances and learn about different olfactory families.
So, come and join us in this journey of discovery and creation, and let us immerse ourselves in the world of natural perfumery together.
By TERRY JOHNSON, IPF USA Chair and Business and Marketing Expert
Last month’s newsletter article discussed three value-market fundamentals every business should practice in these very challenging times. Let’s expand on these basics starting with the first fundamental:
To develop a totally value-based business to differentiate you from the competition and persuade growing numbers of high value customers there is greater value in your products than that of other competitive products.
A key word here is “differentiate.”
To succeed against stronger, well-financed competition, businesses can attract more customers by giving them better choices (differentiation) for what they purchase. This is where value and value-added come in. Competition, by the way, is much stronger than most people think it is with budgets the way they are.
If you sell to consumers, you are competing with everything they need to purchase or want to purchase. That’s quite a list!
To attract and keep customers you will be needing every value-added tool available. Why should consumers purchase your perfume or essential oil instead of something else? Can you give them ten reasons why? Twenty?
Establishing yourself as an expert in Natural Essences within your community is empowering because it gives you the capacity to help your community make the right choices for healthier and safer lifestyles.
Obviously, anyone who wishes to become and continue to be an expert in Natural Essences must have a great deal of accurate knowledge about Natural Essences, which is where the value of continuing education comes in.
If you are a Natural Perfumer, you also need expertise as an aromatherapist, and the reverse is true for Natural Aromatherapists needing Natural Perfumery. Having knowledge of the history of perfume also has important benefits and needs to be studied.
Continuing Natural Essences education along with effective messaging of the value of Natural Essences will lead to clear, positive distinctions between your up-to-date expertise and the lack of expertise from your competition.
Three Action Steps to Implement Beginning Today
THE POWER OF THE RAW MATERIAL AND THE ART OF REDISCOVERING THE ORIGINS OF NATURAL PERFUMERY.